Austria - Innsbruck

31 August

We arose early to catch the train to Innsbruck. Ryan wanted to go through Austria and it just so happens that the timing worked out for a short stopover. We grabbed cappuccinos and chocolate croissants for the ride in the train station.  The train ride was a little stuffy but really pretty scenery with the stereotypical alpine houses (a squatty a frames with gorgeous flower boxes in every window). It took about 2 hours to get to Innsbruck. We walked around town and were a bit horrified to find that a stadtplan (map) cost 3€ and the bathroom cost 0,50 € in the train station. We bought a street map at the info center for 1€. It seemed that everything pointed towards the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof), but when we finally found it it was a bit disappointing. It was fun, however, to wander the town with old painted buildings, decorative architecture, street cafes and cobblestone streets. 

We saw some buildings and a tram going high up the side of one of the alps, and decided at would be fun. 

We found it on the map and thought it didn't look too far away... so we started walking. I should point out here that both of us were wearing our "traveling shoes"-- that is, slip ons for comfort and easy airport screening. We walked across the river (it was very silty and gray) and then through a park. Then we started ascending... Then the sidewalk disappeared as we kept going up and up. It was pleasant out (70 deg) but we were both sweating with pained feet by the time we reached our destination. As we were paying for the funicular ticket it became obvious that we could have picked it up farther down the hill and we had gone way out of the way and unnecessarily up a long hill. At least we got our exercise! The funicular was 6,80€ round trip which we thought wasn't a bad deal. However when we reached the top and had to transfer to the tram we discovered it was  23€ to go all the way to the top of the mountain. We begrudgingly paid the additional fee and went all the way up to the very top of Nordkette, Hafelekar.  The views were spectacular! You could see in every direction from downtown Innsbruck to the small airport (got to watch some planes take off in the valley) to the craggy Alps in most of the other directions. There was a short path to the very top and we debated going given our pain levels, but eventually decided we would regret it if we didn't go. We hoofed it to the top to even more amazing views and we're glad we did. I made it up the last bit telling myself that if the Von Trapp family could do it so could I.The summit was 2338 m (7400 ft). 

We went back down to the first tram stop (called Seegrube) to have lunch on the patio while overlooking the town. I battled the surprisingly pushy older crowd to get us food. Feeling pretty confident that I was ordering Ryan a meat and cheese sandwich and myself spinach dumplings, I ordered in German and the guy had no problems understanding me (but he didn't understand the thickly accented German of a guy behind me). However, what came out was a "snack platter" with various cheese and cured sausage with what looked like uncooked shreds of bacon and shredded horseradish. Ryan didn’t mind. My spinach dumplings were good but heavy. I also got "almdudeln" to drink, which we found out later is an herbed soda (and it was pretty good, I thought). This mountain was clearly a destination for hikers and mountain bikers and a destination for "locals.”

We rode the tram and funicular back down and found ourselves MUCH closer to the city center than our long and steep route. We walked the streets for a bit longer, and got some gelato. Having had enough of an adventure for one afternoon, we headed back to the train station (getting only marginally lost....) where we got on some free wireless and checked our email again.

The train from Innsbruck to Bregenz where we had to switch trains for Zürich was really nice with geblinken lights everywhere and leather seats and power plugs. The section manager came by and gave us orange juice boxes and KitKats (they tasted different!) We charged equipment and listened to music to tune out the loud, and probably nearly deaf, pair of Swiss gentlemen in the seats in front of us. Just as we were coming into Bregenz they made an announcement about connecting trains, including something about the train to Zürich.  I knew they said something about a delay and/or change in the schedule, but as soon as the German announcement completed the guys in front of us erupted in a tizzy and were very incredulous, so we missed the English announcement.  Since we had about an hour in Bregenz, we stopped in the bahnhof cafe for a couple of kleine biers. We both liked it (less bitter than the other pilsner that we had had) and 30 ml seemed downright manageable.  When we returned to the tracks we heard more announcements in German about a delay and the other patrons were in disbelief. Turns out the train was running 20 minutes late which is unheard of in Switzerland! Despite our best efforts, the two loud gentleman again sat right in front of us once the train did arrive. Other than that it was nice to watch the scenery go by from the train.  Right at the Swiss border the ticket guy came around and checked passports.

Martin met us at the Zürich Hauptbahnhof (HB) and we took a series of trams and busses to get to their apartment.  It seemed like a long way back to their place, but in the following week we repeated the process almost daily and it got shorter and shorter.  We made sandwiches for dinner, and discussed what our plans for the next day should be given the weather forecast.  Initially we were going to take a boat on the Zürichsee, but it was supposed to be rainy so we thought the Appenzell cheese factory might be a better dreary day sort of adventure.